I have to pinch myself from time to time, and remind myself that I am in fact living in America. For an Easter European that might as well be equal to living in Space, especially if said Eastern European hasn't ever traveled outside of her country until she was 25 years old. The effects of the initial cultural shock are already wearing out, and I wasn't entirely unprepared for a life in the West to begin with after three and a half years in London, but still I sometimes happen to kind of snap out of whatever I was thinking about while riding on the freeway, and as I straighten in my seat a little, I open my eyes wide and I tell myself: This is it, I am really here.
A few things say "America" as strongly as the sight of a busy freeway. Unfortunately.
Being here, in this specific part of Northern California, right at this very moment, is an experience in its own league altogether. I remember what my Dad told me before John and I moved from across the Pond: "Just like America is ahead of the rest of the world, California is ahead of the rest of America". My father has never been to the U.S. but he reads a train-wagonfull of books every year (and, for a 56 year-old Bulgarian man, puts the Internet into a very good use), and he's correct.
The San Francisco Bay Area and the Silicon Valley are now happening, and happening tremendously. And we, John and I, together with the rest of the Palo Alto - Mountain View - Cupertino, etc. residents, are in the Second Bubble. Straight into the middle of it. We are riding the wave, we are witnessing the making of the Tech History first hand. It's exhilarating...or at least it is for all of the young professionals who populate the area, for the software geeks who flock from distant countries in search of the golden fleece, for our friends in Google, and even for John, who works in an up-and-coming cloud storage startup company.
For me, not so much.
This is a story about what it is to find yourself in the right place at the right time, only to discover that it is actually right for everyone else but you. I am realizing as I type that this is pretty much also the story of my life. It's hilarious, really. Oh, I can't complain by any means; I am happy here. It is home - I made it my home, and I am aware that it is times better than if Fate had decided to take me to, say, Zimbabwe or Arkensaw. It's just that I sometimes feel I am closer by mindset to the Hispanic gardeners than to the suburban housewifes they fork for in the million-dollar homes of Old Mountain View.
As we speak, at least half a dozen new condo developments are being erected around town. The increased demand for fresh workforce requires more space, more homes, more parking lots, more restaurants, more strip malls. It's a Boom Town that grows by the hour...yet I don't see more public parks, more street art, more museums. The evolution of Mountain View is solely dictated by needs of the Google Droids, the Apple Fanboys, the Facebook Clan, and the likes. You see, here technology is king and the needs of the business rules, not some organic local culture. Indeed, the lack of sophisticated or at least genuine culture is what bothers me the most.
Mountain View is about a 100 years old; at first an agricultural settlement surrounded by orchards, then an engineering town, and now it's a suburban software center - that, amazingly, still remains as provincial as always.
There's nothing much to see here. A main street, Castro, where all the restaurants and cafes are, a train station, the Computer History Museum, the Library...and that's pretty much it. The rest is Target, the expressways and the boulevards, the aforementioned million dollar homes, and of course, hundreds of tech company offices. This Sunday I noticed that even the
Lytro camera people have settled in MV, just around the corner from where I live.

This does miracles for the economy of the area (and for the prices too, which are times higher than in the rest of the country) but what is it doing for its cultural climate? I'll tell you. Not much. You walk around at lunchtime and you see all those geeks in preppy clothes crowding the Chinese Food joints, and you hear them talking about the new app they're working on at the moment. You see their wives driving Infinity cars on the way to pick up their kids from $2000 a month daycare centers. You meet virtually no homeless people, a few sulking teenagers with skateboards, lots of content and neat looking retired men and women walking their dogs, lots of Indian and Asian immigrants pushing their way at the Farmer's Market. Because aside of the undergoing technology revolution, Mountain View is overall a slow, safe, clean and boring place to live.
I might sound ungrateful to you, but I tend to criticize the Silicon Valley constructively too. I asked what John thinks about the whole Second Bubble Phenomenon, and he - despite of having an active part in it - was rather ruthless.
The Silicon Valley is a chess club on steroids, he said. The people here and inherent intellectuals, but their elitist attitude that doesn't seem to help fill up the place. It feels empty because they are only measuring one thing: their own success.
John is supposed to fit right in. He's partly of Asian descent, works in the tech industry, and has an university degree. But! He still has too much in Europe in him (a year in France, 3 years in Bulgaria, 3 and a half years in London - thus also luckily bypassing the 8 years of Bush administration), dislikes the local driving culture intensely (cars vs. public transport), and happens to like all the wrong sport (also wrongly called "soccer").
What really doesn't harmonize with John, however, appears to be the selfish drive of today's technology world. The Silicon Valley practically screams "Me! I am number one!" and not the whole, not the country. The local success remains local. Meanwhile, the new minorities displace the old ones - Israeli, Russian, Chinese, Indian. Of course, the old minorities are still here; they are just made invisible. When I walk dogs at noon, while the tech people are having power lunches and company meetings, I meet them - the old minorities. They speak Spanish and they fix the streets and build condos, they are maids and gardeners and delivery boys. They smile and say Ola, and I smile back, because I know - stereotypes are not complete, but they are also not necessarily untrue. I come from a country where only the Gypsy people collect the garbage and dig trenches next to the roads. Apparently, even 10 000 km away, in the midst of a historical civilizational leap, nothing is going to be much different. The marginalized stay marginalized, and the world keeps turning.
How does the Silicon Valley achieve that? Why hasn't it transcended the stereotype yet? John explains: tech giants and startups alike, under false pretenses, hire foreigners straight out of college with masters from a diploma factory, and pay them less, even just a bit less, only so that they can bring fresh workers in 2-3 years observing the same model, instead of bothering to promote from within. Such use of professionals is bad because it's not sustainable; the work is available, the need is there, but not the quality.
However, there's the profit. A CEO might make the whopping $500 000 per year, and the workers - only $80 000, instead of, say, a $100 K. Saving money that way is petty, and reeks of exploitation. I guess that in the age of Occupy Wall Street this isn't much of a news, reporting that corporations are once again taking over. But I still find it sad. Wasn't this technology revolution supposed to be all about "Don't be evil."?!
John continues: It's a kind of a myth that you can compete with Intel, Oracle, Google, etc. It is possible to grow and make money, but you can't reach them anymore. Between the patents and the capital, you'll be crushed. And really, what kind of ideal is "Don't be evil", but moderate, conservative even. The Uber Geeks that make up this place have no real culture, even lives. Everything they do and are interested in is virtual, and they are compulsively obsessed with gadgets, almost to the state of a fetish. And this isn't evil, but is in no way is saving the world either. They idoloze the Titans of Technology like Steve Jobs and Mark Suckerburg (I am particularly proud of coming up with this one!), but overlook everyone else.
Thus, organic culture fails to arise. The foreigners differ and cannot create communities. Individualism rules. And I keep being bored out of my mind.
Surely, I can easily ignore the entire situation. I don't live by what Mozilla does, or by what LinkedIn says, thank you very much. I view technology as a tool, not as the purpose, so I simply use it and go on with my life. It's irritating to realize that putting a bunch of super smart people together will not automatically create a Paradise and admittedly, trying to find the next big thing in rock or in fine art in these parts seems like a futile exercise, but at least I can use the safe, clean, and boring environment to be left alone and uninfluenced to my own creative process. Thankfully, writing benefits from provincialism better than other arts.
So, as long as I don't turn into a consuming suburban housewife (which is highly unlikely) or into a greedy Senior Software Architect with no soul (which is even more highly unlikely), I'll be fine here. Besides, there's always Monterey Bay, or San Francisco, or Bulgaria to escape to when things get too tardy.
And the question who's going to save the world, I am afraid, remains unanswered.
P.S. Many longs months ago I was sitting on the stairs here at home and smoking a cigarette, when a guy came out of his apartment, pushing a giant, no - humongous ball. It looked like insanely overstuffed bead chair. He huffed and puffed and tried to take it down the stairs, so I offered to help. The guy, long ponytail and glasses, disconnected look on his face and slightly retarded smile, accepted my offer and we both carried this abomination to his car. The car was a two door 90's Toyota, and most of it was already full with other junk. In the next 3 minutes I was involuntary witness of the Guy trying to fit the bead ball in to the small free space that was left in his car. It was an unsettling sight, and I will never forget the feeling of inadequacy that washed over me. This guys is crazy, if there was ever a crazy guy out there, I thought.
Soon after that incident, I was taking my recycling out and I met the guy again. He hopped down the stairs and when he turned his back towards me, I noticed that a long furry tail was hanging down his pants. I asked him about it, and he proudly explained that he had made it himself, and that it's his hobby. He petted the tail as he spoke. I asked what does he do for living.
"I am a software engineer," he replied.
***
I can tell you who's not going to save the world - software engineers. (Sorry, honey).